3.3 Clothing Construction Processes

• The meaning of a stitch, and the general rules for working stitches
• Temporary stitches: tacking (basting) and marking (tailor tacks)
• Permanent stitches: joining, neatening and decorative stitches
• Making and mounting samples of stitches

• classify stitches used in clothing construction
• make samples of stitches used in clothing construction
• appreciate the use of stitches in clothing construction

“How do different stitches affect the quality and durability of a garment?”

“How can stitches be creatively used in clothing construction?”

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1. Stitches in clothing construction
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   What a stitch is, the general rules for working stitches, and the classification of stitches into temporary (tacking and marking) and permanent (joining, neatening and decorative) - and how stitches affect a garment's quality, durability and beauty.
2. What a stitch is
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   A stitch is one loop or pass of thread through fabric; a row of stitches joins, neatens or decorates, and it is not the same thing as a seam.
3. General rules for working stitches
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   Every stitch is worked with the right tools, a secure start and finish, even size, balanced tension, clean work in good light, and safe disposal of pins and clippings.
4. Temporary and permanent stitches
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   Temporary stitches hold or mark and are unpicked; permanent stitches join, neaten or decorate and stay in the garment.
5. Even tacking (basting)
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   Even tacking is a temporary row of long, equal running stitches that holds layers while you fit or machine, then is unpicked.
6. Long-and-short tacking and diagonal tacking
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   Long-and-short tacking is a faster temporary hold for long seams; diagonal tacking holds two layers flat so they do not slip.
7. Tailor tacks (marking stitches)
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   Tailor tacks are loose loops of double thread that transfer a pattern mark onto both fabric layers, then are snipped so each piece keeps a tuft.
8. Running stitch
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   Running stitch is a small even permanent joining stitch used for light seams, gathers and easing; it is weaker than back stitch.
9. Back stitch
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   Back stitch is the strongest common hand joining stitch: each stitch goes back into the end of the last one, so the right side looks like machine stitching.
10. Machine stitch as a joining stitch
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    The sewing machine makes a lock stitch that is the everyday permanent joining stitch: reverse at both ends, even length, balanced tension, then remove the tacking.
11. Overcasting a raw edge
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Overcasting is a permanent neatening stitch that wraps thread over a raw edge so cotton and kitenge do not fray in the wash.
12. Hemming and blanket stitch
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Hemming holds a turned hem with tiny stitches that barely show; blanket stitch wraps an edge with a knot on the brim and can neaten or decorate.
13. Decorative stitches: chain, cross and feather
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Chain, cross and feather stitch stay in the garment to add colour and pattern - the creative use of stitches on yokes, cuffs, initials and kitenge edges.
14. Making and mounting stitch samples
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Each stitch is worked even on a labelled scrap, mounted in a folder in class order, peer-checked against the general rules, with safe disposal of needles and clippings.