3.4 Clothing Construction Processes

• The meaning of a seam
• Types of seams: open (plain), French, overlaid and double-stitched
• The qualities of a good seam
• Factors influencing the choice of seam

• identify types of seams used in clothing construction
• make samples of seams used in clothing construction
• evaluate the qualities of a seam in clothing construction
• embrace the use of seams in clothing construction

“How can seams be creatively used in clothing construction?”

“What factors influence the choice of seam in clothing construction?”

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1. Seams in clothing construction
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   What a seam is, the four main types of seam (open, French, overlaid and double-stitched), the qualities of a good seam, and the factors that decide which seam to use.
2. What a seam is
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   A seam is the line of stitching that joins pieces of fabric; the seam allowance is the cloth between that line and the raw edge.
3. The open (plain) seam
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   The open or plain seam is the everyday join: stitch, press the allowances open and flat, then neaten each raw edge. It is used on most school uniforms and dresses.
4. Neatening an open seam
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   After an open seam is pressed, each raw edge is finished by overcasting, machine zig-zag or (less securely) pinking so cotton and kitenge do not fray.
5. The French seam
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   A French seam is stitched twice so the raw edges are enclosed: first wrong sides together, trim, then right sides together. Neat on both sides; ideal for light, fraying fabrics.
6. The overlaid seam
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   An overlaid (lapped) seam lays one edge over another and stitches it down. It is flat and often used on yokes, bands and decorative kitenge panels.
7. The double-stitched seam
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   A double-stitched seam has two rows of stitching, lies flat, and is very strong - the seam for jeans, workwear and any join that takes hard strain.
8. Qualities of a good seam
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   A good seam is strong, flat and smooth, straight and even, neat, suitable for the fabric and garment, and well-made. Evaluate by checking each quality.
9. Factors that influence the choice of seam
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   Choose a seam by matching fabric, garment use, position, strength needed, the finish you want, and the skill and equipment you have. There is no single best seam.
10. Matching seams to Kenyan garments
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Apply choice in Kenya: open and neatened for most uniforms, French for a light blouse, overlaid for a yoke, double-stitched for jeans and hard-wearing shorts.
11. Creative use of seams
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Seams can be design: contrast top-stitching on jeans, an overlaid kitenge yoke, or a stitched-down fell that shows. A creative seam must still be strong, flat and even.
12. Making and mounting seam samples
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Mount a labelled sample of each of the four seams, peer-assess against the six qualities, remake weak work, and dispose of scraps safely.