3.5 Clothing Construction Processes

• The meaning of management of fullness
• Methods of managing fullness: darts, gathers, pleats, elastic, easing
• The qualities of well-managed fullness, and factors influencing the method chosen
• Constructing a simple garment using methods of managing fullness

• identify types of management of fullness used in clothing construction
• make samples of management of fullness used in clothing construction
• examine the qualities of different methods of managing fullness
• construct a simple garment using methods of managing fullness
• embrace the use of management of fullness in clothing construction

“How does the choice of fabric influence the management of fullness in clothing construction?”

“What factors influence the management of fullness in clothing construction?”

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1. Management of fullness
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   What management of fullness means, the five methods (darts, gathers, pleats, elastic and easing), the qualities of well-managed fullness, how the fabric and other factors decide the method, and using these methods to construct a simple garment.
2. Why fullness must be managed
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   The body curves at bust, waist and hips, so a flat pattern piece leaves extra fabric that must be controlled if the garment is to fit.
3. General rules for managing fullness
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   Six working rules: mark first, distribute evenly, secure at the seam, press the right way, match the method to the fabric, and do not stretch or pucker.
4. Darts: shaping a garment to a curve
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   A dart is a stitched fold, wide at one end and tapering to a point, used to shape bust, waist, shoulder or hip on fitted garments.
5. Working a dart: mark, fold, stitch, press
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   The procedure for a single-pointed dart: transfer marks, fold right sides together, stitch from the wide end to the point, knot, and press to one side with no bubble.
6. Gathers: a soft, full effect
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   Gathers draw a wider piece up on a thread into small even folds, giving a soft full look on skirts, sleeves, frills and children clothes.
7. Working gathers: two rows, pull, even, stitch
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   The procedure for gathers: two rows of long stitches, pull the bobbin threads, even the folds, stitch the seam, then press the seam only.
8. Pleats: controlled fullness with a crisp look
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   Pleats are folds pressed or stitched in. Knife pleats all face one way; a box pleat opens out; an inverted pleat meets in the middle - the school-skirt method.
9. Working pleats: mark, fold, tack, press
   40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
   The procedure for knife pleats: mark fold and placement lines, fold, pin and tack, stitch across the top, press sharp with even depth.
10. Elastic: an easy, comfortable grip
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Elastic in a casing gathers the fabric and grips the body, stretching to put the garment on - the beginner method for waistbands, cuffs and children wear.
11. Working an elastic casing
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Fold a casing, stitch leaving a gap, thread elastic on a safety pin, join the ends without a twist, close the gap and even the gathers.
12. Easing: a little extra, no visible folds
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Easing joins a slightly longer edge to a shorter one so it sits smoothly, with no gathers showing - the method used to set a sleeve into an armhole.
13. Qualities of well-managed fullness
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Examine fullness with five tests: even, right place and amount, flat and secure, suited to fabric and garment, and comfortable.
14. How fabric decides the method
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Inquiry 1: light soft cloth gathers, crisp cloth pleats, thick bulky cloth is darted, stretchy casual cloth takes elastic - choose the method the fabric will do well.
15. Other factors that influence the method
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Inquiry 2: besides fabric, the garment and look wanted, the position on the body, fit and comfort, style, skill and equipment all influence which fullness method you choose.
16. Sample folder and peer-assessment
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Mount one labelled sample of each method in a folder, then peer-assess against evenness, placement, security, suitability and comfort.
17. Construct a simple skirt
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Plan and begin a gathered or elasticated skirt that uses seams to join the pieces, fullness at the waist, and a hem - stitches, seams and fullness together.
18. Safety and waste in the clothing workshop
    40 min · 1 practice tasks · quiz
    Workshop safety with pins, scissors and the machine, plus responsible disposal and reuse of fabric and thread scraps - the PCI and value that close the sub-strand.